Margaret's new bow...
Following discussions on St Patrick's Day with some of you, I have a rather hazy recollection of making a commitment to update you all in more detail on Michael and Drina's adventures since his safe arrival in Puerto Montt early in January. So here goes, I'll share some of Michael and Alex's stream of correspondence with me since then. These excerpts are subject to the usual redactions for the sake of cutting out the more boring and uninteresting administrative bits and I've not included my side of the conversation as it's mostly just weather forecasts, share market reports and reports on investments that are of interest to Michael. The rest is just providing answers to questions about suppliers and agents at various destinations etc. not all that interesting and lends nothing to the narrative. The other issue that I intend to fix in the near future is the lack of photo's. The reason is of course I don't have any... All the Internet links they have had access to so far are too slow to transmit large files. So we'll have to wait 'till Gouldie gets back with a fist full. As soon as I have some I'll share them.
Michael's comments are in inverted commas and mine are delineated by
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before and after the comment. Hope you enjoy the tales...
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By late in January, Michael had cleared in and out of Puerto Montt after come adventures with the local officials and had resumed their adventure. here is an excerpt from a note describing their first encounter with a glacier...
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"Dear Kerro,
It is just over a week since we left Porto Montt and yesterday we visited the Rafael glacier.
It was quite a experience with bergs and bergy bits to negociate to get close to the face to watch it calving. Today we are in a small anchorage and sharing it with an Aussie yacht Volo.
We waiting for the wind to moderate so we can go back north to a Puerto Montt up there for re-fuelling before we tackle Channel Darwin and go further South. The anchorages so far been OK with no real problems.
We have been doing a lot of motoring, especialy when it is calm. We did get another rope around the propeller which we got local diver to clear for a staggering A$120, I was not looking forward to going in the water as it is around 5 Degrees. The rope was huge and took him ten minutes to clear. We have the heater going full blast today.
regards Michael"
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Then on the about the 18th February Drina crossed the 50 South Latitude. This is the start of the official Round the Horn part of the trip as to claim to be included in the Round the Horn list the mariner has to cross from 50 south on one side of the continent to 50 south on the other side from east to west or as Drina is doing it from West to East. So here is the mail announcing the beginning of that bit...
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"G'day Kerro,
Big news on board Drina, as we have crossed below 50 degrees this morning! All is well here- Patagonia is amazing. It might even be spectacular enough for the Papua New Guinean to forget about the Pacific tropics for a minute or two.
I can send you photos (or upload them?) as soon as we get to a place with a fast internet again.
I didn't think it was possible for an email to beam with pride, but you've accomplished that. Congratulations on the granddaughter!
Michael says that he will reply soon; we're en route to our next anchorage, at the moment.
I hadn't heard about the cyclone/floods? Were there many volunteers to help out? How are things drying out now? And good luck fending off those leeches... yikes.
Many thanks for passing on all of the thoughtful regards from alll those following our progress.
Best,
Alex"
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Then some time later, Michael types more slowly than the Technical officer...
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"Dear Kerro,
Was nice to get all your news,first congratulations on your grand daughter.
I am amazed that so many people are interested and following my adventure here at the end off the earth and still following sailtrack. I am thankfull for the best wishes from Frank,Bif, John Saalfeld,Rod in PNG and Brooksy.
Thanks for the note and email address from Bob Foot ex PNG. Please let Cam in Hobart know that his yacht Classic would a much more suitable vessel to do this bit of the passage with its lovely cabin and ability to sail with all the doors tightly closed against the Antarctic winds. Not to mention fuel range, something we have to watch closely on Drina.
Since visiting the Raffal glacier we back tracked about 100 miles to be able to exit through Canal
Darwin to cross the gulf of Penas. We visted the small cummunity off Tortel. Amazing place with timber walks everywhere to be able to get around because off the bog and steepness off the land. We had a real storm coming out off the canal there, 55 knot winds and zero visibility and we got into our first small anchorage and had to run shore lines., A real experience. Next day was another small anchorage with shore lines. We were all snugged up there and a maxi classic yacht called Ashanti IV 115 ft long
came in and rafted up with us. They had us on for drinks and dinner which turned into a party. It skipper was the only man on board and 5 full time girls as crew. A wild night lots off fun and I did have trouble getting back on to Drina.
Since then we have had snow capped mountains in sight every day. We made a detour to Seno Glacier to see the glacier there and then on to Eden, another very isolated place with wood boardwalks
again.
Last night we anchored in a small bay and a small 31 ft British Yacht came in with two brothers and rafted up with us again, so another driking session, and dinner on Drina this time. I am happy to say we have a anchorage to ourselves tonight. We have had two long days off sailing with just head-sails
running, it is too windy and dangerous to hoist the main. I am aiming now to get to the beagle channel to catch up with Gouldi when he comes.
You are right about the cold, it is bad, but the heater is working well. conditions here are very harsh. We crossed below 50 degrees south today.
The mountains are huge, the channels narrow and funnel the wind
in big gusts and sometimes whiteouts.
I am trying to get a move on so as not to be caught here for winter.
Rgs Michale"
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Then a day later Michael reported he was underway again and making good speed towards Puerto Williams so he could catch up with Gouldie on Pelagic Australis on the the 8th and 9th of March. Michael's intention was then to get the necessary permits for Drina to transit the Beagle Channel and round the Horn in company with Pelagic Australis so they could take photos of each others yachts as they passed the close to the lighthouse etc. Read on...
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"Dear Paul,
We have today exited the Canal Smyth and entered Magellan Strait. It is a rare calm day here, as was yesterday so am motoring quickly as possiable down the Strait. We are now less then 300 miles from the Horn and am a 100% sure of catching up with Gouldie.
We are well and today not wearing gloves. The sun is out.
rgs Michael"
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And on the 21st of February...
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"Dear Paul,
Today we are at a place called Borja, We are at 53 31 s 72 29 w, There is a tree with boards nailed to it with yacht names that have visted here. Slocum visited here and climbed the hill
which I plan on doing this afternoon, tomorrow we vist Bahia Mussel on E Isla Carlos 111 Island which is a whale sanctuary and hopefully has whales in the bay there. Spoke to a Tanker going up the strait this moring and he reported whales in the area there.
Then it is on ot Bahia Fortescue which has a mountain to climb to see a cross planted there that was Blessed by the Pope... (which one I wonder) It is a 2461 ft climb and has been visted by and climbed by Slocum, Capt Fitzroy of the Beagle, Louis de Bougainville, Capt Pringle on the Beagle, and others. The mountain is called Monte Cruz (Mountain of the Cross).
Climbed a huge mountain in the last anchorage and brought
back some snow.
Tell Goldie to get four sets off Thermal gear., I am wearing four sets, two jumpers and my musto with glovews and head
gear. I have being trying to get more info from him on his plans and who else he is with, as yet no reply to the email, told him to bring my sailmail address and let me know his whereabouts so we can me in some anchorage.
We are only about 280 miles from Port Williams now, but have a few glaciers to vist on the way.
I am reasonably confident in being in Port Williams by the 8th when he is due., He said they plan to round the horn and cruise the Beagle channal, but no dates on when they finish. If possible would like to round the Horn in company with them? so to get mutual photos. If you could check Google to see if they have
a web site to get a trip plan and their Sailmail address and skippers name it would be appreciated, I think the boat is called Pelagic Australis?
Today is overcast and very cold so will fire up the heater shortly, have packed a lunch and are off shortly
to climb.
rgs Michael"
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Then more climbing... Some of the figures might be in feet and not meters in this report as 25 kilometer high mountains are probably beyond most of us... Though you never know!
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"Dear Paul,
Yesterday away all day climbing and managed this huge Mountain which I am told was 25000 M or so. It was very steep. Today we have moved 12 miles or so to here. launched the dinghy and went out chasing whales in the Channel and in the bay. One passed 200 metres from where I am anchored amoungst the kelp in a small
cove. Today is calm again with a unusal light NE wind. Forcast is tomorrow back to gusty west to 40 knots, We plan to move 12 miles to Bay Fortescue.
Rgs Michael"
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Then, a small disaster as against advice they sail under main and break the boom....
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"Dear Paul,
We arrived at this anchorage about 1600 hours. It supposed to be the most popular and stunning anchorage on the Beagle channel area. There are 6 other yachts here so space is tight, no one
came to welcome or even offer advise on anchoring and running shore lines. We have managed to anchor and run to line to trees between two french yachts.
The bad news of the day is we broke clean in half at the boom vang area our main boom.
We are around 160 miles from Port Williams and Port Ushuaia, I hope we can get it sleeved and welded in the latter?
It was a bit blowy today and I suspect we have a front going through as the bar has dropped.
We are in good spirits otherwise and have broken out the Bundy.
By the way Green Label Jameson was afround $35.oo in Port Montt.
rgs Michael"
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Before Michael embarked on this passage I suggested that it would probably be uncomfortable and very cold wet foggy and windy... And suggested he read a few reliable accounts of the area written by early sailors and adventurers such as Darwin and Fitzroy. Both of whom described the miserable conditions almost exactly as Michael does in the following.... It seems that being forewarned makes no difference at all, at all, at all....
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"Dear Paul,
We arrived Seno Giribaldi yesterday at around miday after spending the night at Caleta Emiilta on Island O'Brien. All Anchorages now seem to require a couple of stern lines as they are pretty tight and too narrow and small to swing at Anchor. We try to get the boat in as close to shore as possible to get out of the way of the williwaws. The disadvantage with this technique is that the stern ends up facing the wind and we need to close the hatch and put in the boards to stop the rain coming in. It rains a lot here, and sometimes it doesn't hail as well.
Seno Garibaldi sports a very active glacier at its head which we visited before anchoring behind a small Island with just one shore line. It proved to be too shallow as this morning found we are aground by the rudder in the sand. Shall wait to float off naturally rather than force it to avoid damage to rudder. expect to get away by 11 am and go to Seno Pia which sports two glaciers in its divided arms.
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Here is a link to a few pictures of Seno Pia Glacier...
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"The scenery is huge is all snow capped mountains and narrow fiord's with sheer granite cliffs. Everything is huge on a grand scale. We are only 125 miles from the Horn and 85 from Port Williams now. We plan to be in Port Williams on the 7th March to catch Goldie and party who arrive on the 8th. after that will clear customs and cross channel to Ushuaia to fix boom and do some shopping. I think all hope off rounding the Horn in company with Pelagic are gone now. Hope to have boom fixed and be back in Puerto Williams to catch Goldie and party again on their return. Maybe we can help them finish all the booze they plan on carrying which may not be used.
I still have one case off Aussie beer and a bottle of "Bundy" and off course the bottle Malcolm gave us for the Horn.
We have had time to work out what happened with the boom., sadly it was not a weakness in the boom but a bad jybe in 40 or so gust that cauht us on the wrong side after we hoisted the main and was paying off to run with the wind. It had been a gentle 25 knots up to then. I have heard that many booms get fixed in Ushuaia so am confident of a fix.
Just takes time and money I suppose?"
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Here is a link to some pictures of Ushuaia...
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"It is terrible to hear about the earthquake in NZ. The news on middle east govt's falling most interesting. No we get no news here. No reception in English on the radio. We don't bother trying. When we meet other yachts the topic is always where we came from and are going and information on different Anchorages and channels etc. We have seen a lot more yachts then we ever expected to see and led to believe. Last night was a real blow here behind the island, the wind generator putting serious amps in the batteries and the heater on flat out. We have water temp off 2.5 and air temp off 2 last few days . When the sun comes out we almost rejoice.
Thanks for all the details for Goldie and his party., I don't think there will be much shore excusions with the amount off grog being carried.??
Today the wind has abated and the bar seems to be on the way back up. So should be a good day. The days are very long. I am up at around 6 and I get away for the next destination and we seem to have dinner after nine when the sun goes down and hope to be in bed by 11 pm.,
The crew carry on often with mails or a movie and often sleep in whilst I get underway.
Tide is on the way back in. there is a lot off ice floating around us and had a big bit wake me up banging the topsides last night.
I hope to get the team here to put all the phots on a cd to send back with Goldie to you
rgs Michael"
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Then another small disaster, an overheating engine. Michael makes light of the incident, however I know from discussions that a failed engine is his worst nightmare. Without an engine the whole process of anchoring and sheltering in these regions is very problematic if not outside the capacity of a yacht with a small crew. The anchor winch is needed to manage the chain and consumes large amounts of battery power, so much so that the engine is normally run while the winch is in operation in order not to deplete the batteries. The stern lines are also managed via the primary winches and again electric power is required. While all these operations can use manual power, it would take a very long time and a lot of physical effort. So read on...
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"Dear Paul.,
Yesterday was not a good day. On checking the engine found the water was down, so topped it up and let go stern lines to leave. Then I thought to look at engine while running and found water leaking out around pump area, so quickly re-launched dinghy, attached the outboard and re-attach stern lines all
while the crew asleep... On closer examination found fresh water pump leaking around seal. So after much figuring it all out took off old pump and attached old spare pump after making a new gasket...
All went well and 5 hours later engine going and all OK so we left for the slog upchannel to Estero Fougue arriving here around five and putting down ancher in 25 ft, 200 ft chain backing into a small opening in coast, attach two stern lines, two breast lines and a long line to a Island in front 450 feet away. Top wind speed for today was 50 knots and it was a bit wild here for a while."
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Here is a picture of the Glacier again courtesy of another blogger whose name I can't pronounce but his blog in a foreign language (Dutch) can be read here...
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We have another Glacier a mile away from the anchorage.
It is now next day and it is vcold and overcast with occasional rain white out. We shall probably leave tomorrow for a place called Ferrai on the border with Argentina which is 32 miles away and then it is another 34 miles to Puerto Williams. Looking forward to catching up with Goldie and seeing a familiar face, being able to speak English with someone other then the crew. So will be there either the 6th or 7th.
Yannel found a old crab trap while attaching the bow line to the Island which we repaired and put out last night, lo and behold this morning we had three small king crabs, they looked like spiders, unfortunately two are female and Alex decided we could not keep them as they were loaded with eggs, so we are down to one crab to share. It is the off season with crabs here, forbidden to fish for them at present....
Cheers Michael"
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Then success, just in time to catch up with Gouldie they tie up to Pelagic Australis at Puerto Williams.
Here is a link to a photo of the Yacht Club/Pub....
And here is another...
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"Dear Kerro,
We just arrived Puerto Williams at 1230 locacl time and are tied up to Pelagic Australis, so should not miss Gouldie and Party. Spent last two nights at a place called Calata Ferrai, nice place, and last night we had party ashore and dined on wild bull that had been just shoot.
Looking forward to getting to Ushuia 23 miles away to get boom fixed.
We have another younger girl joining us from the states soon, something Alex arranged some time ago that has come fruition.
rgs Michael"
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So early in March Gouldie sent me a flurry of emails with instructions on all the tasks that needed to be attended to while he's away having a good time... All this as he prepared to depart for South America and catch up with Michael and participate in this faux round the horn expedition... I know,I know maybe "faux" is a little harsh... It's just that by this stage I had begun to be a little jealous of the whole business and detected some tiny feelings of regret that I'd turned down invitations to participate....
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"Dear Paul,
Gouldie arrived around 5 pm on our Tuesday., So met the group and had dinner on Pelagic with them all before we retired to the bar on that old trawler sunk there to act as a wharf and Club house with bar and showers etc. I retired at midnight as my usal self but Alex and Yernell and the bar carried on with them.
Alex very popular as she was the only one of two girls there. There where crews there from other potential and actual Cape Horners.
Pelagic Australis left at 8 am and was going to Calata Ferrari up the channel to ride horses and Gouldie to climb a mountain. I understand they have permission to go up the Beagle Channel and exit Cooks Strait and have a 100 plus nautical to sail to the Horn and then back to P Williams.
We left around 11 yesterday and are in Ushusia rafted up. No sign off Jeanne on her yacht Nereida that was all locked
up. It is vcold today and blowing dogs off the streets.
Will finish clearing in today and then find someone to repair boom.
rgs Michael"
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Yesterday, Sunday 0600 Sydney time, I had a call from Gouldie, slightly the worse from waiting for the 10,000 year old ice to add to the 12 year old Scotch. They were up the channel and had sent someone up the glacier to fetch the 10,000 year old ice, however it seems this expedition took longer than expected and those on-board had decided to broach the whiskey using the more mundane 10 hour old stuff available in the freezer. In the meantime it seems that Michael had caught up with Jeanen Sorcerer the singlehander Nereida....
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"Dear Paul,
Caught up with Jeanen yesterday and we all went out and had Drinks at a Irish pub and dinner afterwards at a really good resuarant that she knew. Was interesting to hear her story, We both went off for coffee afterwoods, just the two of us, so today I am being teased by the Technical Officer.
Ushuia is fantastic. Lots off duty free shops and Ships that take people off on the tours.
It is a bustling place and very large. About the same size as Cairns and lots off good resturants.
Jeanen hopes to get away in a few days, We are going shopping today to Supermarket togther and after that I'll help her with her boat, putting main on etc.
Last night really cold and wind blew around the 50 knots most off the night, and it snowed this morning.
Wind is down now and it should be a nice day but still vcold.
On the phone front for St Pat's Day, Alex is talking about a few sim cards, she will hopefully organize them. If we get them I'll send you the number(s)
rgs Michael"
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At this stage I gave Michael a few tips on how to select a good Irish Whiskey for use on St Patrick's Day....
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"Dear Paul,
Thanks for the info on the Jameson Whiskey, the bottle we got has no age, no wonder so cheap.
Maggie the new crew arrived this morning, she is lovely and she and Alex good friends., She is a lot younger as just finished Uni.
In 1986 on Drina, we met a Irish Doctor in Sri Lanka. He was taking a 51 ft boat he had built in Taiwan to the Med for charter work. He had a all Irish crew from the villiage where he lived. He invited us at the time to visit him in Ireland, but we were too scared to do so with "the troubles" there at the time. He owned a Pub called "Daft Eddy's" which I am told he was banned from.
I have met a Irishman here on Rival sailing single handed called Sam Davis who it turns out was best friends with the Doctor, The Doctor died on his yacht about 14 years ago in the Azores. Sam (the guy off Rival) has invited us to vist him in Ireland. I am sorely tempted to do so so shall try and sail to Ireland after
USA.
It is a small world to run in to some one who Sam had as a mutural friend, Sam is a terrific bloke and I am enjoying his company, we are all going to his boat for dinner shortly to eat (Irish) Stew.
Boom not ready yet as welding rod shortage here. Should be ready Thursday.
rgs Michael"
"PS. Sam gave me a copy off the 2009 Annual Journal of the Irish Cruising Club. Beautiful book of 230 pages with lots off colour photos and story's.
Here's a quote from same...
(He who would go to sea for amusement would go to hell for pleasure)
And another...
(It is apparently unlucky to begin a voyage on a Friday, the day Christ was crucified.
In the nineteenth the British Navy thought it would step on this notion.
It laid the keel of a new vessel on a Friday, named it HMS Friday, launched it on a
Friday and set to sea on a Friday. Neither the ship nor the crew were ever heard of again)
"Dear Paul,
Had Sam on board yesterday evening to help celebrate the 17th. Good evening and we used some of our 10,000 year old ice cubes with the Jameson.
Our boom came back yesterday and we reinstalled everything, cleared customs this morning and are back in P Williams. A good repair job, boom just needs painting when we get to a warmer climate.
We hope to go up the Beagle Channel tomorrow weather permitting for a few days before doing the Horn and clearing out for
Faulklands
rgs Michael"
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So there you have it, you are all now as up to-date as I am...
All the best for now PK
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